[b][size=18]COMBINATION OF THE SCRIPTURE OF THE DAY AND THE RARE FRUIT TREES AND VEGETABLES. With the Scripture of the Day first.
[1] SCRIPTURE OF THE DAY – [Tuesday]
For with thee is the fountain of life: in thy light shall we see light. Psalm 36:9 [authorized King James Bible; AV]
Almighty God (YHWH) is the creator of all there is, and he was the One who created mankind as testified to at Genesis 1:26 – 27 [AV] “And God said, Let us make man in our image, after our likeness: and let them have dominion over the fish of the sea, and over the fowl of the air, and over the cattle, and over all the earth, and over every creeping thing that creepeth upon the earth. 27 So God created man in his own image, in the image of God created he him; male and female created he them.” Since He created mankind, does it not seem reasonable that He could also restore life to those who have died? In fact, this is assured to us at Acts24:15, [AV] “And have hope toward God, which they themselves also allow, that there shall be a resurrection of the dead, both of the just and unjust.”
In fact, our Creator, Almighty God (YHWH) , initially intended for mankind to live forever on earth according to Genesis 2:15 – 17, and they read as follows, “And the LORD God took the man, and put him into the garden of Eden to dress it and to keep it. 16 And the LORD God commanded the man, saying, Of every tree of the garden thou mayest freely eat: 17 But of the tree of the knowledge of good and evil, thou shalt not eat of it: for in the day that thou eatest thereof thou shalt surely die.” [AV] . Showing His intention for them to live for ever and care for the garden, but this was contingent on their not eating of the fruit of the tree of the knowledge of good and evil.
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Your Friend in Christ Iris89
Francis David said it long ago, "Neither the sword of popes...nor the image of death will halt the march of truth. "Francis David, 1579, written on the wall of his prison cell." Read the book, "What Does The Bible Really Teach" and the Bible today, and go to WWW.JW.ORG!
THE RARE FRUIT TREES AND VEGETABLES:
Here is a Commentary on Bountiful Trees and Vegetables God (YHWH) has provided for mankind, specifically the Garcinia kola (bitter kola, a name sometimes also used for G. afzelii) is a species of flowering plant in the Clusiaceae or Guttiferae family. It is found in Benin,Cameroon, Democratic Republic of the Congo, Ivory Coast, Gabon, Ghana, Liberia,Nigeria, Senegal and Sierra Leone. Its natural habitat is subtropical or tropical moist lowland forests.
Garcinia kola or bitter kola is a tree that grows in the rain forests of west Africa. The fruit, seeds, nuts and bark of the plant have been used for centuries in folk medicineto treat ailments from coughs to fever. According to a report from the Center For International Forestry Research, garcinia kola trade is still important to the tribes and villages in Nigeria. As with any herb, never consume garcinia kola without first discussing its use and benefits with your physician, especially if you are currently being treated for other medical conditions or are on any medications.
Traditional medicine
Garcinia kola is traditionally used by African medicinemen who believe that it has purgative, antiparasitic, and antimicrobial properties.[2] The seeds are used for bronchitis, throat infections, colic, head or chest colds, and cough.[2] It is also used for liver disorders and as a chewing stick.[2]
Barriers to cultivation
Despite its socio-economic importance of Garcinia kola, the cultivation of the species is very much limited. Factors that have discouraged farmers from growing Garcinia kola include difficulties encountered in the germination which reduces the availability of seedlings in the nurseries for possible plantation establishment. Most of the productive trees are those which were left in the wild when farm plots were cut out of the forest (Adebisi, 2004). Researchers have studied the germination problems of G. kola seeds and suggested various means of breaking its dormancy (Gyimah, 2000, Anegbeh et al., 2006, Kanmegne and Ndoumou, 2007, Oboho and Urughu, 2010, Oboho and Ogana, 2011). But there is still a great need to investigate more simple and practicable methods that could be easily adopted by the farmers with low technological input. G. kola seeds has both seeds coat dormancy and physiological dormancy probably imposed by the chemicals in the seed (Oboho and Urughu 2010). Seed coat dormancy of Garcinia kola can be reduced by removing the seed coat before sowing while the physiological dormancy can be reduced by soaking in water for 72 hours (Yakubu et al., 2014). the removal of the seed coat, soaking in water for 72 hours, placing inside air tight transparent polythene bag and sprinkling of water on the seeds when needed for constant moisture will give early germination period of 2 weeks (Yakubu et al., 2014).
References
1. Jump up^ Cheek. M. 2004. Garcinia kola. 2006 IUCN Red List of Threatened Species.Downloaded on 20 July 2007.
2. ^ Jump up to:a b c Maurice Iwu, Angela R. Duncan, and Chris O. Okunji, New Antimicrobials of Plant Origin p. 457–462. 1999, ASHS Press, Alexandria, VA
[sourc - retrieved from https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Garcinia_kola on 10/15/2015]
In Genesis 1:11-13, "And God said, Let the earth put forth grass, herbs yielding seed, and fruit-trees bearing fruit after their kind, wherein is the seed thereof, upon the earth: and it was so. 12 And the earth brought forth grass, herbs yielding seed after their kind, and trees bearing fruit, wherein is the seed thereof, after their kind: and God saw that it was good. 13 And there was evening and there was morning, a third day. (American Standard Version, ASV)[for more details, go to www.jw.org].
Francis David said it long ago, "Neither the sword of popes...nor the image of death will halt the march of truth. "Francis David, 1579, written on the wall of his prison cell." Read the book, "What Does The Bible Really Teach" and the Bible today, and go to www.jw.org!
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Fuchsia plants bear exotic-looking, two-toned blossoms that provide striking color and tropical ambiance. They are perfect for hanging baskets, though they look just as nice when allowed to cascade from a large planter sitting on the ground or on a pedestal. Don't be intimidated by their delicate beauty: fuchsias are easier to grow than you might think!
Fuchsia plants, pronounced FEW-sha, are also called Lady's Eardrops, for their gracefully dangling flowers. They prefer partial shade along with frequent feedings with a water-soluble fertilizer during their blooming season. Potting soil should be high in organic matter and have excellent moisture retention, but be allowed to drain. We recommend 2 to 4 fuschia plants per container for maximum visual impact! [source - retrieved from http://www.gardenharvestsupply.com/productcart/pc/fuchsia-plants-fuchsia-flowers-potted-fuchsia-for-sale-c167.htm on 12/21/2014]
Planting a Fuchsia Border:
Recently we had a request from a member to suggest tall Fuchsias for a border planting with small Fuchsias to use as ground cover which would harmonise with the tall ones. The member lives in the Southern Highlands so hardy /easily grown varieties were needed.
Site: The space for the border needs to be 2 to 4 metres wide to allow for growth. Fuchsias like dappled shade in summer with more light in winter. Deciduous trees are good as they provide both. Tall trees such as eucalypts, which have a high canopy and allow the winter sun to penetrate under the tree as well as provide dappled shade in Summer, also work. Fuchsias grown in full shade will have problems flowering and may develop long and lanky growth. They like morning sun or very late afternoon sun. Fuchsias really dislike western sun, wind and frost.
Soil: Planting a border is easier than planting a hedge but the need for good soil preparation is vital. As with roses, the soil needs to be prepared several weeks before planting with enough time for the plants to establish before both the hot summer weather and the coldest part of the winter occur. Late winter for Spring planting or midsummer for early Autumn planting are best. You can dig deeply into the soil already there and improve it or, if you prefer, build up the bed 15cm (6”) to 25cm (10”) above the ground level with good soil mixed with cow and/or other manures, blood and bone and add lots of humus such as aged leaf and grass clippings, compost or stable manures
This step is important as it provides the plants with a good base with rich, free draining soil. Raised beds also allow you to dig a deep and wide hole for each plant. After preparing the soil, spread blood and bone or Organic Life over the soil then cover with good mulch. Moisten the soil and leave for some six weeks before planting.
Selecting Plants: Depending on your site and climate you may need to use very hardy frost or heat tolerant plants. You will also need to consider ultimate height after two or three year’s growth as well as ease of access to the border. If you have chosen to have a very wide border then a simple path using flagging or stepping stones will allow you to access the plants without breaking their brittle branches or compacting the soil. Position all the plants before planting. Smaller plants tend to settle in better than large plants. I usually use plants in 5” or 6” pots like those we sell at the Fair and Festival.
Spacing: Fuchsias need good air circulation so be generous when spacing the small plants. If the border is long and wide then plant in a triangle of three plants of the same cultivar to allow for a good block of colour. In a narrow border just use one plant of each cultivar but don’t be too het up about planting in straight lines. A slight zigzag effect will give each plant more space. Leave 60cm ( 2 feet) between plants to allow for growth. In the first year add small perennials such as brachycome, pinks, dianthus, cranesbills, lupins or annuals such as Lobelia, Alyssum, small begonias etc or even Bulbs such as Star Flowers, baby daffodils, Freesias, Muscari and Bluebells which can be left in the ground. In the front of the border choose trailers. Plant them at the widest space of the triangle or zigzag in about 30cm (12”) from the edge to allow for growth. Choose prolific flowerers like La Campanella, Micky Goult, Blue Lagoon rather than spectacular doubles which may have fewer flowers. If the bed has been built up the trailers will spill over the ‘hill’ at the edge of the border.
Care of the Border: With good soil preparation, the plants will make good growth during the first season. If you have planted in Autumn and your area gets very cold weather and/ or frost you will probably need to protect the baby plants. Cover the bed with good mulch. You can even place newspaper around the plants but not too close to the stem to allow plenty of moisture to penetrate. Tree sleeves can be placed over the plants to protect them. Just insert three sticks then place the tree sleeves over the sticks and the plant. If the plants are affected by frost/ cold do not cut back but leave them until the Spring when they will reshoot. I leave all my in ground plants alone until Spring when I tidy them up as new growth appears naturally. That is when you can dig gently around the plant to allow air into the soil, fertilize with a good balanced fertilizer and water well then cover with mulch. This should be all they will need for three to four months other than removing debris around the base and pinch pruning two or three times as they grow. You may want to foliar fertilize with a high potassium fertilizer such as Thrive Fruit and Flower or Better Bloom as flowers form.
In Summer (I do mine after Christmas) give the plants a trim back then dig lightly over the bed with a hoe, water then add more good organic fertilizer and renew the mulch for a good autumn show. [source - retrieved from http://www.fuchsiaclubnsw.com/html/sub/helpfullstuff/PlantingaFuchsiaBorder.html on 12/21 /2014]
GROWING FUCHIAS IN THE HOME GARDEN.
INTRODUCTION
Fuchsia are very rewarding plants to grow, they flower for a long period of time and will grow in a wide range of positions. When you select a plant, look for a compact bushy specimen with healthy leaves and a strong root system. If you want to see what the root system looks like, ask a shop assistant to tap the plant out of the pot for you. NEVER take the plant out of its pot before you buy it.
Fuchsias will flourish quite well in moderate garden positions providing that they have the right position and proper care. To accomplish the best results, Fuchsias need strong filtered light and plenty of fresh air. Fuchsias do not like too much heat and need to be protected from frosts and hot winds. They must be kept moist, but not wet and they need protection from the strong after noon sun. Most Australian gardens will have a position somewhere in the garden that will accommodate growing fuchsias.
An ideal situation can be created under a structure with medium grade shade cloth, shade from trees or buildings.
GARDEN FUCHSIAS
When deciding to grow Fuchsias in the garden, Autumn is really the best time to be planting out, as the weather is milder and the plants establish themselves before next the summer. If you plant out Fuchsias at any other time, special care and constant attention is needed.
Ideally, grow fuchsias in a spot that receives abundance of morning sun and protection from strong winds. The area that you are going to plant your fuchsia in should be well prepared and well-drained, fuchsias can't handle wet feet.
Some varieties of Fuchsias, if they are planted at the right time and are established properly in the ground will take a lot more sun. But you need to understand their most important needs.
SOIL PREPARATION
Dig a hole 6 inches deeper than the height of the plant container. Mix some Compost, blended with some well rotted Cow Manure into the bottom of the hole.
The width of the hole should be dug wide enough so that there is plenty of room left when the plant ball is placed into the hole. Once the plant has been inserted into the hole the gap around the root system should be half the width of the new plant root ball all the way around. This then allows enough space to replace the new prepared soil mixture around the plant ball.
PLANTING
A 140mm pot is a ‘throw away pot’, so the plant should potted as soon as possible. The plant should not be planted too deeply and the soil should be lightly firmed down and well watered after planting. The average person tends to pack the soil too loosely around the plant and later on the roots are exposed after the soil has settled down.
Mulching the garden bed, especially in the summer months, helps to make clay soils more friable and free draining and a soil which will retain moisture.
PLANTING IN WIRE BASKETS
A basket Fuchsia variety needs a basket 350mm (14") or bigger. A wire baskets lined with coconut fibre is preferable to plastic as it keeps the root system cooler and provides good drainage.
PLANTING IN TUBS
An upright Fuchsia best planted in a cement, terracotta or plastic pot at least 250mm (10") in diameter.
Stand the containers off the ground on bricks or pot legs and this will allow the water to drain away from the soil. I can't stress enough how important it is to make sure that the fuchsia plants do not become under or over watered especially in container grown plants.
The self-draining pots are the best way for growing fuchsia plants. These type of pots ensure that the plants are supplied with the correct amount of water all the year round. The pots can be connected to an automatic or manual drip watering system.
Empty the water out of the bottom storage area once a month and leave for several days before refilling. This will help to prevent algae and mosquitoes breeding in the water. It will also let the roots that are growing through the drainage plate die. If the roots are left to penetrate through and grow they will fill the area below and take up vital water storage room.
WATERING
The correct amount of moisture for the plants are very important and it is impossible to tell you how much water to give each plant. Sandy soils need more water than heavy loam soils and plants in areas protected from winds need less water than plants in unprotected positions.
Fuchsia plants need to be kept moist, but not waterlogged.
The most important point to remember is that a fuchsia plant should never be allowed to become dry. Always check your plants regularly to make sure the soil is moist. If the plants are on a drip system, regularly inspect the drippers to see if they are working correctly while the system is working. Deep watering more frequently during summer, is sufficient.
WIRE BASKETS.
It is important that the Fuchsias do no dry out. Basket Fuchsias are inclined to dry out quickly, so on hot windy days, take them down and place on the ground in a cool position and water early in the morning. Only replace to their original position when the weather becomes cooler.
FEEDING
Fuchsias aren't the hungriest of plants and they're usually happy with a couple of basic annual feeds of Dynamic Lifter or Yates Blood and Bone. In addition, when they're making plenty of spring growth, water them every couple of weeks with Thrive Flower & Fruit or Aquasol. Feed potted fuchsias with Nutricote orAUSSIECOTE (Click here for further information on this product) in the spring and this will keep the plants healthy and full of growth.
PRUNING YOUR FUCHSIAS
September is the time to finger pruning 'stopping' the fuchsias, this is a method of pruning the tips, which means pinching out the central bud at the end of each shoot.
This encourages side shoots and makes the plant grow thickly and lushly. In mid summer, if the plant is starting to look tired, give it a good cut back and some more fertiliser to promote new growth.
A hard prune should always be executed in July or August to maintain healthy growth. Clip the plant back to just above the hard wood and remove straggly and weak growth. This is also the time to re-pot if the plant has outgrown its container. Pot into a larger container or root prune and repot into the same container, replenishing the soil.
A light trim prune in January, or before the hottest weather, is ideal in areas with hot dry summers. The advantage of this trim is to have a smaller plant without flowers through the hottest months. Trim back behind the flowers to healthy leaves and shoots, making sure there are plenty of leaves on the plant. The plant will only be out of flower for 4-6 weeks and will then flower through the autumn and winter.
In frost prone areas, be careful not to prune during the heaviest frost period as new shoots are tender and will burn. If plants are affected by frost, wait until the frosts are over before doing any pruning.
Pruning is also the time to fertilise as pruning encourages new growth and feeding is important for healthy plants.
STANDARD FUCHSIAS
Standard Fuchsias can be developed by selecting a plant with one strong stem. They can be trained as standards by tying a main stem to a stake. Remove the side shoots as they develop, but not the top. Do not take away the leaves from the main stem as the plant needs these to continue growing. When the desired height is reached, pinch out the growing tip, leaving up to four sets of side shoots below the pinch intact, and proceed pruning the tips off the side shoots until a well shaped head is developed. Only remove the leaves from the stem when there are plenty of leaves on the head of the plant.
Fuchsias can be trained as standards by tying a main stem to a stake and removing the lower shoots from the stem. Discontinue liquid feeding until a regrowth commences.
FUCHSIA PESTS AND DISEASES
Fuchsias aren't troubled by very many insect pests but they can be attacked by caterpillars and thrips. Most caterpillars can be removed by hand or, for a quick fix, sprayed with Pyrethrum. Confidor, SYSTEX or Folimat. will give long-lasting control of thrips (tiny sucking insects that cause leaves to silver leaves) and aphids.
Rust is the most common fungal problem that affects fuchsias. Control with Baycor fungicide. This product is so effective it's used by many commercial fuchsia growers.
Lastly, protect fuchsias from extreme conditions of heat, wind and cold by spraying the plants with Seasol every couple of months. [source - retrieved from http://www.heyne.com.au/gardencentre/factsheets/factsheet.php/fuchsias.htm on 12/21/2014]
In Genesis 1:11-13, "And God said, Let the earth put forth grass, herbs yielding seed, and fruit-trees bearing fruit after their kind, wherein is the seed thereof, upon the earth: and it was so. 12 And the earth brought forth grass, herbs yielding seed after their kind, and trees bearing fruit, wherein is the seed thereof, after their kind: and God saw that it was good. 13 And there was evening and there was morning, a third day. (American Standard Version, ASV)[for more details, go to www.jw.org].
Fuchsias 101 – How to Eat Fuchsia Berries
September 9, 2010 by powellswood
By Jackie LaVerne, PowellsWood Gardener & Consultant and Owner of Magellanica Gardens Nursery
What?! Did that say eat fuchsia berries?!
Yes! It did!
It does not seem to be commonly known to folks who are growing fuchsias in their gardens that they are growing berries. Usually people think of those dark squishy things as a menace and a mess in their yards. But they are actually very tasty berries that can be used in many ways, including salads, muffins, tarts, garnishes, jams, jellies, even pies (although you really have to collect a lot to make pie!), and the berries are also just great to pick and eat all by themselves. And the flowers are edible too.
All fuchsias produce berries, although some varieties have much better tasting fruit than others. The berries are produced as the flowers on the plants mature and fall off. What is left behind is either a round or elliptical-shaped berry. The berries can grow to almost an inch long on some hybrids and species fuchsias, or to just 1/2-inch on the miniature Encliandra-type fuchsias. Single-bloom fuchsias produce more fruit than double-bloom fuchsias. Fuchsia berries can taste very peppery to very sweet, almost like a kiwi. The berries of Fuchsia procumbens, the groundcover fuchsia, are my personal favorite; they get very large and are very sweet.
Late summer through fall is a good time to harvest fuchsia berries. Pick the berries when they are soft and squishy; test them by tasting them to make sure that they are sweet. Be sure to use them promptly, as they do not keep well and will go bad quickly once picked. If you need to save up large quantities of fruit for a pie or tart, freeze them immediately like any other berry. When harvesting the berries keep in mind that the dark fruit will stain clothes and fingers, so remember to dress accordingly!
You can use your own berry recipes and substitute fuchsia berries, or here are two great fuchsia berry recipes to try. Do you have a favorite fuchsia berry recipe to share? We’d love to hear from you!
Fuchsia Berry Jelly
1 cup fuchsia flowers
1 cup ripe, washed fuchsia berries
1 cup sugar
Juice of 1 lemon
2 cups of water (or apple juice or apple cider)
1 apple, sweet, peeled and chopped
2 tablespoons of unflavored gelatin
Simmer flowers, berries, sugar, lemon juice, water, and apple for 10 minutes. Let mixture cool a bit, then strain it. Add the gelatin and allow to thicken in refrigerator.
Fuchsia Berry Jam
1 lb. sugar
2 tablespoons water (or apple pectin, apple juice or cider)
juice of 1 lemon
1 ½ lb. of ripe fuchsia berries, washed
Combine sugar, water and lemon juice in a pan and cook carefully over low heat until sugar dissolves. Set aside and allow to cool completely. Add the berries gently, folding them into the mixture so as not to break up the berries too much. Bring the mixture slowly to a boil. Boil until the mixture will set when tested on a plate. Seal in heated jars. Allow to cool completely before eating, then enjoy! [source - retrieved from http://powellswood.wordpress.com/2010/09/09/fuchsias-101-how-to-eat-fuchsia-berries/ on 12/21/2014]
TO LEARN MORE ABOUT RELIGION AND THE BIBLE, GO TO,
Francis David said it long ago, "Neither the sword of popes...nor the image of death will halt the march of truth. "Francis David, 1579, written on the wall of his prison cell." Read the book, "What Does The Bible Really Teach" and the Bible today, and go to www.jw.org!
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COMBINATION OF THE SCRIPTURE OF THE DAY AND THE RARE FRUIT TREES AND VEGETABLES. With the Scripture of the Day first.
SCRIPTURE OF THE DAY – [Tuesday]
But when the Pharisees had heard that he had put the Sadducees to silence, they were gathered together. Then one of them, which was a lawyer, asked him a question, tempting him, and saying, Master, which is the great commandment in the law? Jesus said unto him, Thou shalt love the Lord thy God with all thy heart, and with all thy soul, and with all thy mind. This is the first and great commandment. Matthew 22:34 – 38, (Authorized King James Bible; AV)
Our love for Jehovah should spring from the heart. Jesus made that clear when a Pharisee asked him which was the greatest commandment.
What did Jesus mean when he said that we must love God with our “whole heart”? He meant that we must love Jehovah with our entire figurative heart, affecting our desires, emotions, and feelings. We must also love him with our “whole soul,” or our life and being. Moreover, we must love God with our “whole mind,” or our full intellect. In essence, we ought to love Jehovah fully, without reservation.
TO LEARN MORE ABOUT RELIGION AND THE BIBLE, GO TO,
To enjoy an online Bible study called “Follow the Christ” go to,http://www.network54.com/Forum/403209/thread/1417398076/last-1417398076/Digital+Book+On+18+Part+Follow+Christ+Bible+Study
Your Friend in Christ Iris89
Francis David said it long ago, "Neither the sword of popes...nor the image of death will halt the march of truth. "Francis David, 1579, written on the wall of his prison cell." Read the book, "What Does The Bible Really Teach" and the Bible today, and go to WWW.JW.ORG!
THE RARE FRUIT TREES AND VEGETABLES:
Here is a Commentary on Bountiful Trees and Vegetables God (YHWH) has provided for mankind, specifically the Longan, Dimocarpus longan, it is a tropical tree that produces edible fruit. It is one of the better known tropical members of the soapberry family. It is native to the Indomalaya ecozone defined by South Asia and Southeast Asia. Description
The Dimocarpus longan tree can grow up to 6 to 7 meters in height, and the plant is very sensitive to frost. Longan trees require sandy soil and temperatures that do not typically go below 4.5 degrees Celsius (40.1 degrees Fahrenheit). Longans and lychees bear fruit at around the same time of the year.
The longan (lóng y?n, lit. "dragon eye"), is so named because it resembles an eyeball when its fruit is shelled (the black seed shows through the translucent flesh like a pupil/iris). The seed is small, round and hard, and of an enamel-like, lacquered black. The fully ripened, freshly harvested shell is bark-like, thin, and firm, making the fruit easy to shell by squeezing the fruit out as if one is "cracking" a sunflower seed. When the shell has more moisture content and is more tender, the fruit becomes less convenient to shell. The tenderness of the shell varies due to either premature harvest, variety, weather conditions, or transport/storage conditions.
A relative of the longan fruit is Lansium domesticum, better known as the langsat fruit, found in and around South East Asia.
Culinary uses
The fruit is sweet, juicy and succulent in superior agricultural varieties and, apart from being eaten fresh, is also often used in East Asian soups, snacks, desserts, and sweet-and-sour foods, either fresh or dried, sometimes canned with syrup in supermarkets. The taste is different from lychees; while longan have a drier sweetness, lychees are often messily juicy with a more tropical, sour sweetness.
The seed and the shell are not consumed.
Dried longan, called guìyuán in Chinese, are often used in Chinese cuisine and Chinese sweet dessert soups. In Chinese food therapy and herbal medicine, it is believed to have an effect on relaxation. In contrast with the fresh fruit, which is juicy and white, the flesh of dried longans is dark brown to almost black. In Chinese medicine, the longan, much like the lychee, is thought to give internal "heat"
Cultivation
Potassium chlorate has been found to cause the longan tree to blossom. However, this causes stress on the tree if it is used excessively, and eventually kills it. (source - retrieved from http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Longan on 1/19/2013)
In Genesis 1:11-13, "And God said, Let the earth put forth grass, herbs yielding seed, and fruit-trees bearing fruit after their kind, wherein is the seed thereof, upon the earth: and it was so. 12 And the earth brought forth grass, herbs yielding seed after their kind, and trees bearing fruit, wherein is the seed thereof, after their kind: and God saw that it was good. 13 And there was evening and there was morning, a third day. (American Standard Version, ASV)[for more details, go to www.jw.org].
Closely allied to the glamorous lychee, in the family Sapindaceae, the longan, or lungan, also known as dragon's eye or eyeball, and as mamoncillo chino in Cuba, has been referred to as the "little brother of the lychee", or li-chihnu, "slave of the lychee". Botanically, it is placed in a separate genus, and is currently designated Dimocarpus longan Lour. (syns. Euphoria longan Steud.; E. longana Lam.; Nephelium longana Cambess.). According to the esteemed scholar, Prof. G. Weidman Groff, the longan is less important to the Chinese as an edible fruit, more widely used than the lychee in Oriental medicine.
Description
The longan tree is handsome, erect, to 30 or 40 ft (9-12 m) in height and to 45 ft (14 m) in width, with rough-barked trunk to 2 1/2 ft (76.2 cm) thick and long, spreading, slightly drooping, heavily foliaged branches. The evergreen, alternate, paripinnate leaves have 4 to 10 opposite leaflets, elliptic, ovate-oblong or lanceolate, blunt-tipped; 4 to 8 in (10-20 cm) long and 1 3/8 to 2 in (3.5-5 cm) wide; leathery, wavy, glossy-green on the upper surface, minutely hairy and grayish-green beneath. New growth is wine-colored and showy. The pale-yellow, 5- to 6-petalled, hairy-stalked flowers, larger than those of the lychee, are borne in upright terminal panicles, male and female mingled. The fruits, in drooping clusters, are globose, 1/2 to 1 in (1.25-2.5 cm) in diameter, with thin, brittle, yellow-brown to light reddish-brown rind, more or less rough (pebbled), the protuberances much less prominent than those of the lychee. The flesh (aril) is mucilaginous, whitish, translucent, somewhat musky, sweet, but not as sweet as that of the lychee and with less "bouquet". The seed is round, jet-black, shining, with a circular white spot at the base, giving it the aspect of an eye. (source - retrieved from http://www.hort.purdue.edu/newcrop/morton/longan.html on 1/19/2013)
I like certain varieties of this fruit a lot slightly cooled from being in a refrigerator for awhile, and eat them same as I do lychee. Also, the City Of West Palm Beach, FL, uses some of the trees as trees to line a few streets and they are pretty.
How this tree and other plants absorb water from the ground. Plants have developed an effective system to absorb, translocate, store, and utilize water. Plants contain a vast network of conduits, which consists of xylem and phloem tissues. These conducting tissues start in the roots and continue up through the trunks of trees, into the branches and then into every leaf. Phloem tissue is made of living elongated cells that are connected to one another and responsible for translocating nutrients and sugars (carbohydrates), which are produced by leaves for energy and growth. The xylem is also composed of elongated cells but once the cells are formed, they die. The walls of the xylem cells still remain intact and serve as an excellent peipline to transport water from the roots to the leaves.
The main driving force of water uptake and transport into a plant is transpiration of water from leaves through specialized openings called stomata. Heat from the sun causes the water to evaporate, setting this ‘water chain’ in motion. The evaporation creates a negative water vapor pressure. Water is pulled into the leaf to replace the water that has transpired from the leaf. This pulling of water, or tension, occurs in the xylem of the leaf. Since the xylem is a continuous water column that extends from the leaf to the roots, this negative water pressure extends into the roots and results in water uptake from the soil. [adapted from: http://www.scientificamerican.com/article.cfm?id=follow-up-how-do-trees-ca ]
Clearly this clever water transport system shows a superior intelligence of the Creator (YHWH).
Francis David said it long ago, "Neither the sword of popes...nor the image of death will halt the march of truth."Francis David, 1579, written on the wall of his prison cell." Read the book, "What Does The Bible Really Teach" and the Bible today, and go to WWW.JW.ORG!
***********STARTING NOW, ALL POST ON THE RARE FRUIT TREES AND VEGETABLES WILL BE POSTED WITH THE SCRIPTURE OF THE DAY TWICE A WEEK, AND THE REMAINDER OF THE WEEK WILL CONSIST OF THE SCRIPTURE OF THE DAY POSTED BY ITSELF OR WITH AN INFORMATIVE ARTICLE ON EITHER RELIGION AND/OR THE BIBLE.********* _________________ Francis David said it long ago, "Neither the sword of popes...nor the image of death will halt the march of truth."Francis David, 1579, written on the wall of his prison cell." Read the book, "What Does The Bible Really Teach" and the Bible today!
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